Former mountain climber known for being the first American to climb K2 without extra oxygen as well as the first American to climb Lohtse. He died in 1996 while descending Mount Everest.
He started climbing with the National Outdoor Leadership School while in high school.
He helped found the company Mountain Madness. His story was featured in the 1997 TV movie Into Thin Air: Death on Everest and the 2015 feature film Everest.
He was survived by his wife Jeannie, who he married in 1981, and children Andy and Katie.
He and Rienhold Messner both climbed Mount Kilimanjaro's Breach Icicle.